Amsterdam Cycle Route 8:
Linear village, historic reclamation, expanding satellite town

Non-tourist cycle routes around Amsterdam. This route passes the IJ docklands, follows a linear settlement which extends north of Amsterdam, goes through the new suburbs and the historic core of Purmerend, then a reclaimed lake-bed polder, returning along a 19th-century ship canal. 41 km, 4 hours. Revised January 2008.

Dit is geen recreatieve fietsroute, en geen zinvolle tijdsbesteding voor autochtone Nederlanders. Zij worden verwezen naar de fietsroutes van bijvoorbeeld de ANWB.

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Recommended maps: the best map of landscape and structure of the Amsterdam region is the ANWB/VVV Topografische Fietskaart Amsterdam / Noord-Holland Noord, map 13 in this series, at scale 1:50 000. The map costs € 10, but these are probably the best cycling maps in the world. For historic comparisons see the Topografische Dienst reproduction of the 1854 military map, sheet 25. There are two specialised map shops in Amsterdam: Pied à Terre / van Wijngaarden (Overtoom 135-137), and A la Carte (Utrechtsestraat 110/112).

start at the ferry landing behind Centraal Station, Route 9 also starts here. The waterfront was relocated, to allow contstruction of a new bus station (on the viaduct) and a future tunnel for the quayside road. The entire station island is being redeveloped.

cross by the NDSM ferry, less frequent than the other ferries. It departs every 30 minutes, at 15 and 45 minutes past the hour, but these times may change.

The ferry crosses the IJ estuary, it was originally wider. Land has been reclaimed on both sides: Centraal Station was built in 1889 on an artificial island, cutting the city off from the estuary. On the north side the Shell complex is being redeveloped. The ferry passes the Silodam development - a 1950's silo and the 1889 grain silo "Korthals Altes" converted to apartments, and the new Silodam apartment block. Next on the south side are the former timber docks, now cleared for the Spaarndammerhout Project. At present, the site is used for temporary student housing, including a former cruise ship.

the ferry arrives on the north shore (in Amsterdam-Noord) at a classic abandoned dockland landscape with maritime curiosities. The ferry route itself, begun in 2004, is intended to make the area more accessible for redevelopment.

The docklands are on former estuary floor, reclaimed around 1875 - the original sea dike is further back from the river. The land was reclaimed for agriculture, but it was ideal for the industrial expansion after 1890. A strip of dockyards, factories and chemical works developed, cutting off the later housing from the IJ.

cycle straight on away from the ferry, follow the green/blue 'UIT' signs. Pass the shipyard halls of the NDSM, the Netherlands Dock and Shipbuilding Company. Shipbuilding here ended in 1984. The halls are being converted to an art and media centre, a classic 'regeneration' strategy. 5 200 apartments, and 270 000 m2 of office space, are planned here. Ultimately, the entire northern waterfront (as far as Zaandam) will be redeveloped.

at the main road (Klaprozen weg, no sign here), turn right. Pass an elliptical metal building (sewage pumps), and then cross a channel lined with houseboats.

This is Zijkanaal I - when the land was reclaimed, these 'side channels' were left open, to connect existing drainage sluices to the estuary.

200 m after the bridge, turn left into Draaier weg. 200 m further, at the corner of the bus garage, turn left along Metaalbewerker weg.

the road bends right, and then follows the bank of Zijkanaal I, with houseboats. You are now on the former northern sea dike of the IJ estuary. To the right is land that was 'reclaimed' in the Middle Ages: strictly speaking it was enclosed by dikes, it was not seabed. To the left was a tidal estuary, until the 1870's reclamation.

further along the dike road, there is a pumping station on the right, Gemaal Kadoelen. In fact, two: one 19th century, and its 1987 replacement.

Water from the pumping station is drained to the estuary via Zijkanaal I. As you pass the old pumping station, there is a green-painted cast-iron pillar on the left side of the road, with the number 46 and the text "Noorder IJ- en Zeedijk". These pillars are old dike kilometre markers. Along the dike to Zaandam more are visible, and on the 1:50 000 map, you can trace the series on to km 71 at Beverwijk.

further along the dike you pass dike houses - apparently single-storey at road level, but a lower floor opens onto the lower land, behind the dike.

after nr. 145, there are no buildings on the right. Stop here to look at the Wilmkebreek polder - an intact open polder, inside the city.

It is unusual that such a polder survived: it is still used for grazing, but is now threatened with development. Looking down here, you can see the typical structure of polder drainage systems. The road is on the original sea dike: the water to the left is separated from the sea only by the locks at IJmuiden. Below the road is the ring canal of the polder, and inside it is a third water level (about 4 metres below mean sea level). Multiple water levels, drained upwards against gravity, are characteristic of the Netherlands polder landscape. The ending '-breek' in the polder name, indicates that this is the site of a breach in the main dike, at some time in the past. The water rushing in always scours (deepens) an area behind the breach. After the dike is repaired, a small lake is left behind. In this case, it was large enough to be reclaimed separately.

after the polder there are houses on both sides of the road. The stepped alleys between the houses are typical of dike settlements. The name of the dike road changes from Landsmeerder dijk to Oostzaner dijk.

at Oostzaner dijk nr 33, turn right, following the sign for Oostzaan. (It is easy to miss this sign). Cross the bridge over the small canal, into Zuideinde.

The housing is now different, this is the beginning of Oostzaan, a linear settlement in the older polder landscape north of the IJ estuary (Waterland). The village extends north-west from the former sea dike, a long street of older rural housing with some farmsteads. Between them is later suburban infill, untypical for Amsterdam: detached and semi-detached houses, with gardens front and rear. The suburban character developed at the time of the First World War, when workers commuted to the docks and industry of Amsterdam-Noord: even in the 1880's there were regular steamboat services to central Amsterdam. By the 1960's Oostzaan was effectively a residential suburb, and the southern end was annexed to Amsterdam. The present municipality Oostzaan has about 9 000 inhabitants. There is a 'twin' settlement, Westzaan, on the other side of the Zaan river, with an identical linear structure, also aligned parallel to the Zaan. In both cases the structure was determined by the mediaeval reclamation of the peat bogs.

1 km further, pass under the viaduct of the ring motorway. It forms the boundary of Amsterdam, and you enter Oostzaan.

On the street map, just after the underpass, you can see the shape of the village - a long street, out into the open polder. Zuideinde (South End) leads to the village core, where there is newer housing, and beyond it is Noordeinde (North End).

continue along Zuideinde: some weatherboarded houses are painted in the regional colour Zaans groen - a very dark green. At the traffic lights, go straight on along Zuideinde, passing Presto Cycle Sport.

Here there are housing estates, on both sides of the the old village street. Although planning policy claims to limit village-by-village sprawl, recent development has joined Oostzaan to Zaandam. It has a density of 554 persons/km ² - above national average, in spite of its 'rural' character.

pass at nr 33 the former Polderhuis, administrative offices for the water infrastructure (dikes, canals). Just after it, cross a bridge over a small channel.

These channels, at right angles to the village street, are typical of the linear polder settlements. Too small to be called 'canals', they were nevertheless used for agricultural transport. Farmers went by boat to milk the cows and cut the hay, and the produce went to Amsterdam by boat. The main street itself was originally a canal with houses on both sides. (More of this landscape later).

continue to the village church, at the core of the village, called Kerkbuurt (church quarter).

The church is one of the three listed heritage buildings in Oostzaan. However, the major contribution of the village to Netherlands culture came in 1887, when the young Albert Heijn took over his fathers grocery shop here. Soon after, he opened a branch in Purmerend: since then, Albert Heijn has not stopped opening them. Beside the church is the new Gemeentehuis, town hall, the old one is opposite it at nr 14.

continue straight on, pass at nr. 27/29 another listed heritage item. It is an original wooden Zaans huis, a house in the regional Zaan style and colour. After the village core, the houses thin out, pass some working farms.

There are several poultry packing plants, a traditional industry here. Across the fields on the left, the slab blocks of Zaandam are visible. On the right, the trees are in Het Twiske, a 1970's recreational park laid out in a polder. Reclamation of Het Twiske begun in the 1930's, as unemployment relief, but the Netherlands no longer needs to reclaim farmland. Parks have a higher priority.

continue straight on, until at nr 121 the road forks: turn right into De Haal. The fork left (De Heul) is a dead end.

These are settlement names rather than street names, and here the original structure is best preserved. (De Haal was also a dead-end road, until 1884). On the left further on, there is a ditch alongside the road, and simple wooden bridges at each farm.

pass (opposite nr 58) a street named Stations straat. This is the access road for the former station of Oostzaan, on the 1884 line from Zaandam to Hoorn. It was very badly sited, and closed as early as 1938. The line is now a double-track electrified commuter route, Amsterdam - Zaandam - Purmerend - Hoorn.

continue toward Purmerend. Between the houses, the landscape type is now clearly visible - grazing land only, high water table, broad ditches, island fields.

Settlement here began late, by west European standards - until the year 1000 this was uninhabited peat bog with tidal creeks. At first the land was above sea level, but when peat is exposed to air by ploughing, it oxidises and shrinks. By 1300 the land was too wet to grow grain. To raise the fields, soil was cut from the banks of the ditches and spread on the field. This widened the ditches, eventually producing the landscape of island fields with grassland. It is called a vaarpolder, a boating polder, because all agricultural work was done with boats. Some of the fields are now overgrown with reeds. This is the so-called New Nature policy - the subsidised abandonment of farmland, to revert to a pseudo-natural state. With a huge surplus of farmland in the EU, the reclamation work of 1000 years can simply be abandoned.

at the last houses, the road bends right, and then 400 m on, you cross a small lifting bridge, over the Twiske.

100 m further, at the cycle sign, turn left along the cycle path (direction Purmerend). Pass through open landscape, parallel to the railway. The new housing of Purmerend is now visible ahead.

at the next cycle sign, turn left across the rail line, again toward Purmerend. But don't stop in the middle of the railway to admire the view. (The crossing has a half-barrier and warning lights).

at a cluster of houses, turn left, following the cycle sign Doorgaand Verkeer ('through traffic'). The reed-lined canal here is a polder ring canal.

100 m on, turn right across the canal, again follow the sign for Purmerend. You can now see across the whole polder, and there is an information sign with a map.

This is De Wijde Wormer, a lake reclamation project of the 17th century. The correct name is not polder, but droogmakerij, dry-makery. Unlike a polder, the land was permanently under water: it is about 4 metres below sea level. The merchants of Amsterdam invested in the reclamation of lakes to the north: Beemster (1612), Purmer (1622), Wormer (1626). Chains of windmills were used to drain lakes: the largest preserved example is at Kinderdijk outside Rotterdam, the only functioning chain is at Arlanderveen, near Alphen aan de Rijn. The Wijde Wormer originally had 12 drainage windmills, replaced by a steam pump in 1878. The agricultural landscape here is planned on straight lines, contrasting with the irregular mediaeval pattern outside it. The farms are all located on two tree-lined longitudinal roads, the central axis was the main drainage canal, but it was displaced for the Amsterdam - Friesland motorway. The farms are larger than those in the older villages, with newer and bigger cattle sheds. This is also grassland, but with large working farms, in the normal agricultural economy. It is not 'producing nature', but producing food. Until 1991 the polder was a separate municipality, with about 1 300 inhabitants - a relatively low population density of around 80/ km².

cycle on along the dike, toward the new housing at Purmerend. From the dike three different water levels are visible: in the older land, in the deeper reclaimed lake bed, and in the ring canal between double dikes. To the right is the village of Purmerland, another linear settlement, along the old road to Purmerend.

at the power line, pass the first houses of Weidevenne, the newest expansion of Purmerend. This is the planned edge of the development, more is under construction between here and the historic core.

Weidevenne is a typical VINEX location. VINEX was the 1990's answer to growing demand for housing, an abbreviation for the Fourth Policy Document on Spatial Planing Appendix (VIerde Nota ruimtelijke ordening EXtra). The idea was to "limit suburbanisation" by concentrating housing at the edge of existing cities. As you can see, a VINEX location is a suburb anyway. By the late 1990's they became the target of criticism among planners and politicians. After pressure from neoliberal economists and the developers lobby, the Balkenende government abandoned most planning controls in 2004. The new national spatial policy - not a 'national plan' - allows developers to build housing almost anywhere in the country.

turn right across the ring canal, on the metal suspension cycle bridge, built to keep the cyclists clear of the 'ecological' wetland below. These water features, and the waterside houses, are typical of new housing developments. Go straight on along the cycle path.

go on to the new Weidevenne station. Just before the station underpass, turn left, along the cycle path between the coloured houses, sign for Purmerend-Centrum.

after the coloured houses, go on into the cycle underpass: again follow the sign for Purmerend-Centrum.

after the underpass, go on through the last phase of Weidevenne, still under construction. This path is the old road to the town centre, the green spire ahead (just visible behind the trees) is the old Town Hall.

at the end of the road, you are on the bank of the Noordhollands Kanaal (1824), which starts opposite Centraal Station in Amsterdam. Across the canal is the centre of Purmerend (the line of the old road continues there). The wooden shed with the bus stops is the former tram station.

The canal was one of several attempts to by-pass the shallows in the former Zuyder Zee. Ships were drawn by teams of horses, on past Alkmaar, to Den Helder on the open North Sea coast. The North Sea Canal, cut straight through the dunes in 1876, finally guaranteed port access.

turn left, along the canal. Pass the shipping lock, and turn right across the lifting bridge.

at the traffic lights, cross the road (Wester straat), straight into the pedestrian street opposite (Padjedijk). You are now in the historic core of Purmerend.

step off your bike and walk along this short street, to the central market square, Kaasmarkt, with the former town hall, now Purmerends Museum. You are about halfway through the route: time for

Coffee!

On a map, the historic core is tiny in comparison to the present city. Purmerend was originally a fishing village, with three lakes around it. When the Beemster, Purmer and Wormer lakes were reclaimed, it became a market town for the surrounding area, a function it retained until the 1950's. In 1884 it was linked to Amsterdam by railway, and from 1894 by steam tram along the bank of the Noordhollands Kanaal: there was also a steamboat service along the canal. In 1950 Purmerend still had only 7 000 inhabitants: planned suburban expansion began in 1957. In the 1970's it was designated as an expanding town, groeikern. The expansion was intended for families from Amsterdam, living at low densities, with employment in the area, and some commuting to Amsterdam. Purmerend did provide that - but instead of stopping at one car per family, the motorisation rate grew even faster. Household size fell, work patterns changed, commuting distances increased, and consumer expectations of housing rose sharply. The planning model got left behind: housing that in 1970 looked modern and 'American', now looks decrepit and 'Soviet'. Weidevenne will increase the population of Purmerend, to 80 000, but its residents will work and shop in Haarlem, Zaandam, Schiphol, or Almere. Already, two-thirds of the working population works outside the municipality. In retrospect, the 'satellite town' concept was dependent on low car ownership, low employment dispersal, and standard family structures - the father as breadwinner in full-time employment, mother at home and children at school in the leafy suburb. The present trend is regional-level urban dispersal, centred on heritage cores of all sizes (hamlet, village, town) - polycentric sprawl.

go straight on, to leave the square by the Breed straat. Continue through Dubbele Buurt, and go straight on through the square Koemarkt, Cow Market. The iron railings were used as stalls for the livestock, although you might not see them behind the cars - the square is now primarily a car park.

from Koemarkt, go straight (to the corner with the estate agents Kocken Makkelaardij). Cross the road to the cycle path opposite, and go on along Purmer steen weg. (The street-name sign is on the house on the corner).

pass the new Town Hall, and then turn next right along the cycle path (cycle sign for Station). 300 m on, turn left to the station.

The station is small for a city of 75 000. The line runs Amsterdam - Zaandam - Purmerend - Hoorn - Enkhuizen, primarily a commuter service. There are 3 trains each hour, but there are plans for a more intensive service around Amsterdam, on the model of the German S-Bahn.

go under the railway via the cycle tunnel. Go straight on to the second cycle sign, 100 m after the tunnel. Turn right here, in the direction of Monnickendam.

continue along the Wetering straat, which turns to the left. This area is called 'De Gors', and it was built in the 1980's. At the time, the dreary housing was seen as an improvement on the slab and tower blocks of the late 1960's.

at the traffic lights cross the main road (Gors laan). 200 m on, turn right into Bovenlandse straat. Here too the road bends left, and then rises to a wide bridge.

go on across the bridge: this is the ring canal of the Purmer polder, another reclaimed lake. The western half of the polder is occupied by the suburbs of Purmerend.

go down from the bridge: in front of the first houses, turn right along the cycle path. It also bends left. From the bend, you follow it in an almost straight line, out of Purmerend.

continue across a curved cycle bridge with white railings: on the left here is the local shopping centre. This area, 'De Purmer Zuid', has bigger houses, more gardens, more water, and more open space. It is architecturally intermediate between 'De Gors' and Weidevenne.

pass under the ring road: continue past the last houses. At the crossing with a tree-lined road, turn right (red-letter sign for Ilpendam). This is one of the original longitudinal roads of the polder. The old farmhouses are still there, but most land on the left was planted with trees.

700 m on, turn left, follow the sign for Monnickendam, along another tree-lined road, Groene weg.

about 1 km on, cross a bridge with white railings. The canal here is the axial canal of the polder, the main drainage canal. Cycle on into the original open polder landscape - the church tower of Edam is visible left.

The canal is the municipal boundary of Purmerend, that is why the landscape has been preserved. The Purmer polder has the same shape and structure as the Wijde Wormer - oval polder with axial canal and two longitudinal roads - but it is bigger. There are plans to fill the eastern half of the polder with new housing. Under the new planning policy, councils can allow almost any building, anywhere. If Purmerend annexed this land, it would certainly build on it. The new policy encourages local councils to treat their landscape as a development asset, to be used to attract investment.

at the next road, turn right, toward Ilpendam. Further on, the road bends several times: continue toward the two church spires of Ilpendam.

the road climbs to a bridge: cross here the ring canal and leave the Purmer polder. Turn left into Ilpendam.

pass the church, and at café 'Het Wapen van Ilpendam' go on toward the traffic lights, follow the cycle sign 'Doorgaand Verkeer' (not the road sign).

stop at the traffic lights, and press for the green light. The main road here runs along the bank of the Noordhollands Kanaal, and the ferry is directly in front of you. There is no space for cyclists to wait on the canal bank: when you press for green, you also ring the bell for the ferry. The lights will not turn green unless the ferry is in place.

cross the road, onto the cable ferry - kabelpont. Cross the canal - it costs just 50 cents. On the other side turn left towards Amsterdam.

you now follow this canal bank road, back to the Centraal Station ferry in Amsterdam. It is all farm access road or cycle path - traffic is concentrated on the other bank. The main road has been reconstructed with a new bus lane.

The bus is the main form of transport between Amsterdam and Purmerend: a planned metro extension has receded into the future, 2015 at least. In the rush-hour, the buses pass cars stuck in a long tailback. According to the transport ministry, public transport has a 73% share in centre-to-centre travel on this route. But most people begin or end their journeys outside the centre anyway. Only high urban densities at both ends can make such a system competitive: the bus lane is essentially a political gesture, not a transport system. The old tram line on this route closed as uneconomic - and that was in 1949.

pass on the other side of the canal the small village of Watergang. Further on, pass another cable ferry.

pass under the ring power line around Amsterdam, and then under the Amsterdam ring motorway: continue along the canalside path.

1 km further, pass the hospital of Amsterdam-Noord (Boven-IJ hospital). Just after it, pass a small windmill (D'Admiraal, 1792), which ground ingredients for mortar.

400 m on, the road rises: there is an old swing bridge here. At this point the canal cuts through the former sea dike - the raised road. Turn right, and after 50 m left, to rejoin the canalside path, follow the signs for Centrum. From the path you can see the line of old houses on the dike, part of the dike village of Buiksloot.

until the next bridge, there is a park on each side of the canal. After that bridge, pass some infill housing on the right: across the canal the main road now descends into the IJ-Tunnel. Pass under another bridge, the last before the ferry.

after Cafe 'Ot en Sien', turn left along the road to the ferry. If you miss a ferry, you can watch the ships on the IJ while you wait. Cross by the ferry to end this route at Centraal Station.