"Wicklow Way" "Wicklow Way"
| Introduction The Wicklow Way is one of the classic long distance routes in Ireland. The full Wicklow Way (120 kms) starts in Marlay Park (in the suburbs of Dublin), runs north-south through Wicklow County, and finishes in Clonegal (Co. Carlow). We walked the part between Tinahely and Glencree (Enniskerry), in total 72 kms (90 kms including excursions), in 6 days. Usually the Way is described in a North-South direction, but walking in the opposite direction has the advantage that the higher climbs and more untouched areas are visited in the later stages. We went for a walk on the Wicklow Way in february 1999. When we told people about our plans to go on holiday in Ireland in february, most of them declared us nuts. The usual prejudice about Irish wetter.... so read on to find out if it was really such a bad idea.... Leaving behind a wet and rainy Holland we were surprised to find Dublin enjoying a lovely saturday. The train journey along the coast is a lovely one with very nice views (make sure you take a seat on the left side of the train!). Mrs. Madge Kenny from Sunindale House (B&B) was so kind to pick us up at Arklow station. Her B&B won the best Irish B&B Award in 1998, and it is obvious why! Excellent accomodation, great hospitality and what's more: an excellent 4 course home cooked dinner! Day 2: a walk around Coolafunshoge Countryside tours had planned a trip for us along the Wicklow Way from Tinahely to Knockananna, where we could call Madge for a lift back to Tinahely. Madge advised us to make a full tour around Coolafunshoge (18 kms, approx. 4 hrs). We started in light drizzle, but soon we had to take our rain coats out of our rucksack. Nevertheless, temperatures were very mild (around 10 C). First half of the tour goes over a narrow unsurfaced track, which is referred to as a boreen locally. The second half we walked along silent roads, enjoying how the sun played with the clouds. Day 3: Moyne - Aughavannagh - Greenane Madge gave us a ride to Moyne. In fact we should start near the Sandyford Bridge, but Madge more or less insisted to drop us on top of the hill above Moyne, so we didn't have to climb up all the way... We left the road to walk into the forest plantation on Shielstown Hill. The Wicklow Way runs through a lot of forest plantation, which gives you the impression that Ireland is quite wooded. However, when examining a map one discovers that the Way seems to attempt to visit every group of trees available, and that there isn't really that much forest around. Frankly I don't know why, because I prefer open country. Moreover, because there is a lot of forestry, paths get damaged and sign posts disappear. So take care! After we crossed the Iron Bridge near Aughavannag we leave the Wicklow Way and continue via a small road running along the southern and eastern slopes of Croaghanmoira Mountain. Beautiful views over East Wicklow. Today's stage ends in Greenane, where we visit Byrne's pub: an old shack with a wood stove, owned by two elderly brothers, nicknamed as "the Dandies". After a phone call we were picked up by Mr. Roy Shorey who took us to Butler's Byrne (Aughrim). Again a lovely B&B, especially for those crazy about horse riding! Day 4: Aughavannag - Glenmalure The next morning Mr. Shorey drove us back to the Iron Bridge where we continued on the Wicklow Way. Soon we left the road to climb to Carrickashane Mountain (508 m) via a very boggy track (photo).
Unfortunately low clouds blocked the views we were promised. Via the eastern slope of Slieve Maan, we descended to Drumgoff in the Glenmalure valley. This valley has a rich history. Visit the Michael Dwyer Pub in the Glenmalure Lodge, and read the posters to learn everything about how in 1580 Fiach MacHugh O'Byrne won a "bloody battle in the glen", and find out about the rebel Michael Dwyer who hid in the Wicklow Mountains around 1800. Day 5: Glenmalure - Glendalough - Laragh The sun and rain create beautiful rainbows over Glenmalure when we head for the Borenacrow pass to Glendalough. The light is so impressive that I take one photo after another.... one can never get enough of this! The only problem is that the light changes so rapidly, that you have hardly time to take your photos! The summit of Mullacor (657 m) was dressed in clouds, so we didn't bother to climb it and went for a straight descent to Glendalough. Don't forget to visit Reefert church and the other churches here! We spent the night in Tudor Lodge in Laragh. Don't forget to visit the pub Lynham's! Day 6: Laragh - Scarr - Roundwood The weather has changed: today's it is much colder and above 550 mtrs the hills wear a nice white snow cap. It's only a short distance from Laragh to Roundwood via the Wicklow Way. Plenty of time to take a detour via Scarr Mountain (641 m): The Way heads just below Paddock Hill (360 m). Leave the Way here, and take the path uphill over Paddock Hill. This path continues in the direction of Scarr, and joins another path which runs along a forest plantation. Continue all the way till you have reached the summit. The track continues over the summit, and descends in the direction of Carrigeenhinnagh. Slightly more to the right you will see a U-shaped wooded area. Descend to the gap in the wood, cross the wood, to arrive in the "U" and cross this open area to arrive at a track leading to Oldbridge. Plenty accomodation available in Roundwood. No rain today: only hail! Day 7: Roundwood - Djouce Mt. - Enniskerry A long walk today. From Roundwood we walked back to the Way. Use the map for careful orientation, since some of the sign posts appear missing, or are hidden behind piles of wood, and forestry activity has created additional tracks to those on the map! Nice view on Lough Dan! When you join the main road, don't forget to look closely into the fields between the road and Lough Tay: we spotted a couple of deer! The climb to White Hill has been made easy: to avoid erosion of the soil and damage to the vegetation, the authorities have created a "boardwalk" here, which comfortably leads you over rather than through the bog. A polar scenery unfolds on top op White Hill and Djouce Mountain. Hail showers sweep over the mountains. The light is magnificent! We are very happy that we decided to visit Ireland in february, because green and white go well together! We spent the night in the lovely Coolakay House.
Our host, Yvonne Roe, was so friendly to drive us to Enniskerry (about 3-4 kms from Coolakay House), from where we took the bus back to Dublin.
Tip nr.1: February is a splendid month for a hike along the Wicklow Way! It will probably rain as much as it will do in summer, but with the sun just above the horizon the light is great and compensates for lower temperatures. Summer seems to bring a lot of fog, mist and midges. Moreover a little snow adds just tiny bit of flavour to the mountains! Tip nr.2: Bring your gaiters because you will be knee-deep in the bog! It avoids embarrasment when entering your B&B address: just remove your gaiters and boots at the door and you and your host will be fine! Tip nr. 3: Be careful with the brown road signs. They are not always properly fixed, tend to act as a weather-vane, and as a result they will point in whatever direction. Also take care in forest plantations: forestry activities might change tracks or pull over sign posts. Tip nr. 4: Enjoy your Guinness!
Copyright © Peter Reuderink/Ant Bijlsma (1999)
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 Contents day 1:
Dublin - Tinahely Getting there
Public transport is a problem in Co. Wicklow: as it is far from densely populated many of the villages have only irregular bus services. Buses for Tinahely leave Dublin only twice a week on thursday and friday at 5.45 and 6.00 p.m. respectively!!! The best way to get to Tinahely is as follows: Take the shuttle bus from the airport to
the city centre (approx. 30 mins, £3,-) and leave at the central bus station (Busarus).
Walk to Connoly train station (only 4 minutes, but it is not indicated properly, so you
might need to ask how to find it). From here trains leave for Arklow (direction Rosslare)
about 3 times a day (8.45a.m., Buses (nr.44) leave from Enniskerry every 30 mins (less frequent on sunday, £1.50)) to Dublin City Centre (allow 45 mins, end of the line near the river, approx. 5 mins from Busarus). For further inquiries: Miss Vibeke Dijkman of Wicklow Country Tourism was so nice to provide us with lots of details and might help you out.
Most people will travel between Bed & Breakfast addresses. Especially in the southern part of the Way the B&B's are scattered, and not always located directly along the route. This doesn't need to be a problem however: many hosts will collect and deliver you to parts of the route if give prior notice. The Wicklow Way Map Guide (see below) contains an up to date list of B&B addresses. Even the smaller villages have a pub where it is possible to get something to eat. In remote B&B's (e.g. Glenmalure Lodge in Drumgoff, Coolakay House) it is usually possible to have dinner if you will ask for it a day in advance. If you have little time to prepare your holiday (as we did) you can make use of a tour operator. We booked our holiday at Countryside Tours (Glencar, Killarney, Co. Kerry). They arranged accomodation, luggage transport, and provided us with maps and information. Everything properly taken care of! It is possible to camp out in the field provided that you ask permission from the local farmhouses. However, it might not be easy to find a proper (dry) spot. Camping is prohibited in the state forest plantations.
Rainbows and Glenmalure go well together....
On our way to Djouce Mountain (725 m, left) and White Hill (630 m, just in front of Djouce).
Ordnance Survey nrs. 50, 56 and 62 scale 1:50000.
The Wicklow Way Map Guide, 1998, published by EastWest Mapping, Ballyredmond, Co. Clonegal. ISBN 1 899815 01 5. You can order it via there home page. A nice fit-for-purpose guide, with 1:50000 scale maps with very good and reliable details. Nice background information on things to be seen along the Wicklow Way. Includes an up-to-date list with B&B accomodation (including tel.nrs.). A must have! Note: the maps only cover the immediate surroundings of the Way, it does not cover the part we walked to Greenane or the village of Aughrim!!!
authorities: commercial: individual:
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