1996: Col de Rabiet, Estaubé

In the final week of september 1996 we made two trips of 4 en 2 days respectively.

Day 1. Gèdre - Cabane de Matte.

Raining cats and dogs. Heading north from Gèdre, over a wooded slope to the Col de Ripeyre. Even at only 1700 metres a strong wind and heavy rainfall made us descend as quick as we could.

Downhill along muddy forest tracks to the quiet valley of the Barrada. Overnight stay in the Cabane de Matte.

Day 2. Cabane de Matte - Cabane de Rabiet.

Dry. Along the brook to the Cirque the Lis, with its tops dressed in white by last nights showers.

Scramble uphill along a boulder field at the right. Paint flashes show up at irregular intervals. At 1700 metres a traverse heads north (this stage is indicated again on the IGN map!). The trail turns to the south east, disappearing under a thick layer of snow. Continue to the Col des Lis.

From the col one ought to make a traverse to the right, in the direction of Lac de Couyela, crossing a number of gullies. Just before reaching the lake one can join the path to the Lac de Rabiet.

We were so foolish to discontinue the traverse (not wishing to climb in/out yet another gully) and descended more or less in a straight line to the Cabane de Rabiet. This brought us on the steep and, due to a thin layer of snow, very slippery slope above the Cabane. "Slip sliding away..." was what we asked for, and at one occasion I was just lucky to escape from a fall of a cliff (ice axe!).

Spend the night in the Cabane de Rabiet. This stage, off the beaten path, lacking way marks, partly through fresh snow, was far from easy!

Day 3. Cabane de Rabiet - Cabane de Sardiche.

Because of poor weather forecasts, we abandoned our plans to return via Cap de Long (crossing a col at 2902(!)m) and Campbieil tor Gèdre.

Instead we went for the Col de Rabiet. The path is less difficult than indicated on the map and in our guide. After three days, we haven't seen no other living being that a few chamois and two ibeces.

The compass has to be used to find our way over the snow covered fields beyond the col. Long descent. At lower altitude a wide path heads for the Ref. de la Glère. Turn left, to arrive in the valley of the Bolou.

Its raining again when we reach the Cabane de Sardiche, lovely situated in a tiny dell, surrounded by junipers. Thanks to the one who left some fire-wood behind!

Day 4. Cabane de Sardiche - Luz St.Sauveur.

The sun is out! The GR10 makes an easy walk to Luz with some lovely panoramas.

With a taxi (tel.nr. on the bulletin board at the Tourist Office in Luz!) we went back to the car. In the evening hours heavy weather broke lose.

Day 5. Gavarnie - Cabane d'Estaubé.

The Cirque de Gavarnie and the Vignemale, covered with fresh snow, stand out against a deep blue sky.

We leave Gavarnie, over frequently visited, heavily eroded tracks, for the Plateau de Pailla. Via the Hourquette d'Alans the beautiful Cirque d'Estaubé is reached. For the first time this holiday, we put up our tent, against a magnificent scenery.

Day. 6. Cabane d'Estaubé - Gavarnie.

Through the Gave d'Estaubé, passing the Lac des Gloriettes. Continue over a beautiful plateau between Coumély and Gave de Héas.

From the Granges de Coumély a path turns back to Gavarnie. Unfortunately, the final descent to Gavarnie, over the road along the Hount Grane is deadly dull.

Finally: packed, all of a sweat, and covered with dust, drink a beer on one of the many pavements in Gavarnie and impress the "ordinary" tourists!