1995: Gavarnie, Ordesa

End of August 1995 we made our first hike through the Pyrenees.

Day 1. Gavarnie - Refuge de Sarradets.

Two options. Experienced hikers might prefer to approach the Refuge from the Cirque de Gavarnie via l'Echelle des Sarradets. Not advised in bad weather, snow or icy conditions!

We took the trail starting near the church, heading via severly eroded zig-zags for the Vallée de Pouey Aspé. It is possible to walk via the Port de Boucharo; we climbed to the Col des Sarradets through the boulderfields along the Riu de Taillon. The path more or less carries you right through a waterfall, making it quite difficult to keep dry feet! Early season, the final stage can be covered with snow/ice .

Day 2. Refuge de Sarradets - Circo de Goriz.

Via the glacier or, when the snow has melted away, via the moraine, the Breche de Roland is reached. Not one of the easiest stages though: in thick fog the Breche is difficult to find, some easy scrambling is required.

From the Breche descend through boulder area. Keep to the east, heading slightly to the right of a rocky peak (2654 m). Otherwise one risks (like we did) ending up too far below the Collado de Descargador.

The track to the Cuello de Millaris is easy to follow. The Refuge de Goriz is visible from here, but the track suddenly disappears. We were lead by a number of cairns, which, disappointingly, only lead us to the edge of the Circo de Goriz. A tricky descent to the bottom of the Circo was the alternative for returning to the Cuello.

Those who want to reach the Refuge are probably better off when to leave the cairns for what they are, and, descending from the Cuello, stick as much as possible to the north over the terraces of the Faja Luenga, staying on the left bank of the brook. Lovely camping spots can be found in the Circo and near the Refuge (note: camping is not allowed in the Valle de Ordesa below 2000 mtrs!)

Day 3. Circo de Goriz - Bujaruelo.

After a cold night we follow the brook downstream. Green paint flashes, and pieces of a trail guide us. Via a steep zig-zag path in the east wall of the Circo the Soaso we arrive in the Valle de Ordesa, Spain's answer to the Grand Canyon.

The path through the canyon gradually widens, and one encounters more and more day trippers. Having a passed the parking lot about 4 km (2.5 miles) of boring main road to Torla have to be overcome. Continue along the Rio Ara for San Nicolas de Bujaruelo to find a fine camping half way.

A track located high in the southern wall of the Ordesa canyon provides an alternative for the busy road in the valley.

Day 4. Bujaruelo - Cabane de Loúrdes.

Leave the Rio Ara valley in Bujaruelo to head for the Port de Boucharo. Take care to cross the Barranco Lapazoso in time (cross a small grove), and follow the Barranco Sandaruelo into a bare grassy dell.

The path, so ovbious on the map, is lost between many cattle trails. Use your compass, climbing uphill along steep grassy knolls, to reach a traverse at 2300 mtrs, which leads to the Lac de Bernatoire.

Descend through the Vallée de la Canau. Cow dung lies all over the place, making it hard to find a proper camping spot. We camped near the Cabane de Loúrdes. (Note: near every cabane we encountered, potable water was available!).

Dag 5. Cabane de Lourdes.

The well marked GR10 makes an easy way to Gavarnie. The first stage conveniently sticks to the 1800 m line.