"Ötztaler Alps" "Ötztaler Alps"
| IntroductionIn september 1997 we stayed 2 weeks in Sölden
in the Austrian Ötztal, from which we made a number of nice walks.
Because it was our first time that we walked in the Alps, our main goal was to explore the area, and get a feel for its difficulties. Originally we planned to make a 5-day tour, but we never got to that. Instead we enjoyed a lazy holiday (to our standards) on the camping in Sölden, concentrating on climbing a number of easy tops: our first "3000-ers". In Vent we cross the river, and walk along its bank, heading for a small cable way. Here we walk uphill, entering the Niedertal, in the direction of the Martin Busch Haus. The road is wide enough to allow the cabin keeper to drive his car up and down to Vent. It is possible to have him transporting your luggage, which might be of interested for those carrying heavy climbing gear. The road bends slightly to the right, and only on the latest moment the mountain hut pops up in front of you. Spent the night in the hut, the afternoon offers opportunities to explore the area. We had quite some bad weather, and after a brief tour to the feet of the Marzellkamm, we quickly returned to the hut.
The next morning we left the hut at 7 (the real mountaineers are have left already 2 hours earlier for the Similaun). The route to the Saykogel is clearly marked. Over grassy slopes one reaches the easterly crest. The summit is gained with some simple scrambling. From here the view on the Similaun, the Niederjochferner, the Fineilspitze, and the Hochjochferner is tremendous. The descent is a little bit more tricky than the ascent, running over the crest which runs in northwesterly direction between the glaciers. In poor weather (snow, ice) it is not simple! Initially the trails tends stay on the right, later it keeps a little bit more to the left. Way marking is mostly lacking: don't get tempted for a premature descent to either one of the glaciers. Leave the ridge heading for a small lake, and descend over endless boulder fields to the wild running brook, which carries the water of the melting Hochjochferner. Take the path below the Hochjoch Hospiz (which lies, unfortunately, 100 meter above the path: we couldn't find the energy to visit it), and walk through the beautiful canyon of the Rofen Ache back tos Rofenhöfe (where a cold beer waits) to Vent. The stage to Vent took us 10 hours: 860 meter climbing and 1460 meter descending. The Kompassguide describes the tour in the opposite direction, which, according to us, is not advisable, as the ascent over the boulderfields to reach the Saykogel is quite uninspiring!
According to the signs this is a walk "nür für Geübte!" (only for the experienced). But it did turn out not to be too difficult. Who arrives early can park his car in Hoch Sölden (2090 m). A nice alternative is to take the chair-lift from Sölden. At the end of the village, a nasty, extremely steep track runs uphill. This climb can be avoided by taking a second chair-lift in Hoch Sölden to reach a height of ca. 2350 m (a so-called "Doppelkarte" can be bought in Sölden). Doing so however, reduces the climb to a minimum. Where the track becomes less steep a T-junction in reached near some water-throughs. Take the path to the right, walking through a nice alpine meadow in the direction of a boulder slope (Grießmaurach). Having passed the boulders a pleasant ascent, involving some easy scrambling, occasionally secured with steel rope, starts. The path reaches the easterly ridge, from which the summit is reached quite unexpectedly. On the latter part of the walk we were pretty exposed to a fierce wind! Return along the same route, in total: 3-4 hours.
Another nice walk, slightly less difficult, from Hoch Sölden. This time: head to the left near the watering-throughs. Unfortunately, the first part of the route runs between the ski-lifts of Sölden, in the direction of the Rothkogelhütte. Beyond this hut the route becomes more interesting: via a col between Rotkogel (2940 m) and Schwarzseekogel (2885 m) the beautiful Schwarz See is reached. A well marked path left of the lake leads to the summit of the Schwarzkogel. What looked like a ridge walk from the lake, is more or less a stroll over a wide plateau. Still, not everybody appeared to feel her/himself confident on these altitudes.... The summit of the Schwarzkogel offers a delightful view over the Pollestal. The mountain-ridge at the other of the valley hosts the interesting, but far from simple Mainzer Höhenweg. The glaciers of the Weisskamm fill the southern part of the panorama. Return along the same route, don't forget to visit the chapel near the Rothkogelhut. total: 4-5 hours. Tip: not indicated on our maps, a sign just below the summit of the Schwarzkogel indicated a route descending into the Pollestal. Most likely not easy, it could offer a nice alternative for the route over the Pollesferner and the parking lot near the Rettenbachferner.
A genuine Wettersturz brought fresh snow above 2000 meters. But the next day the skies were clear again, and we took the Bergbahn from Sölden to the Gaislachkogel. On 3000 meters it was slightly below zero, but stormy winds made that it felt much colder. From the Gaislachkogel we descended to the Gaislachersee (2750 m) over a steep path through virgin snow. Ice axes were not really necessary, but provided us with a save feeling. The "normal route" from the Gaislachersee descends in a south easterly direction, to reach, with a wide turn, Gasthäus Gaislachalm. Instead, we walked along the left bank of the lake, to climb the 2914 m high col in the south easterly crest of the Äußere Schwarze Schneide. Occasionally paint flashes are visible. Climbing the col through fresh snow was a pleasure. When this part is icy, an ice axe and crampons are probably necessary! The col offers an excellent view on the Innere Schwarze Schneide and the Wildspitze. To the south, the Similaun with its glaciers, and the mountain ridge including the Saykogel are visible. From the col, paint flashed seem to indicate a route to the summits of the Schwarze Schneides: don't follow them! Instead, descend over the boulder field to the small lake at the feet of it. There is no obvious path. From the lake we headed south, lateron more to the south west, following a number of little rivulets, and a tiny lake. Finally it is possible to descend between rocky ledges to a clear path which heads from the parking lot near the Tiefenbachferner to the Gaislachalm. Having finished a cup of gulaschsoup on the Gaislachalm, we continued our way to return via the midstation of the Gaislachkogelbahn. A proper map and compass are necessary for the part between Gailachersee. An altimeter also proves to be useful. Duration of the trip is about 6 hours: leave early and keep on going in order to return in time at the Bergbahn! West from the Ötztal lies the beautiful Pitztal. At the end of this narrow valley lies Mittelberg, from which the Stollenbahn, an underground mountain train, takes you more than 1100 meter higher to another glacier ski area, which in summer is nothing more than a giant construction area at 3000 meters height. Close your eyes, and take the lift to the Hintere Brunnenkogel (3438 m). Nets spun around the summit have to ensure that elderly on sandals, and lively kids don't head the quick way down.... not the quite "the place to be" for any proud mountaineer, but it is more than compensated for by the magnificent view on the Wildspitze. At the horizon Piz Bernina, the Ortler and the Dolomites can be seen.
Back in the pit, it is worthwhile to take the route to the Mittagskogel. The final stage of the ascent is formed by a nice ridge walk, with lovely views on the Taschach Tal, the Riffelsee, and the Kaunergrat. For dessert the summit offers a splendid panorama of the Pitztal. The die-hards can take the trail down to Mittelberg, otherwise return using the Stollenbahn. |
 Contents Saykogel (3360 m) Going there
We travelled by car to Sölden. However, it is very well possible to take the train to Roppen (in the Inntal) and from there by bus to the Ötztal. Public transport around Sölden is excellent: per bus it is possible to reach every single corner of the valley: the Rettenbachgletscher, the Tiefenbachgletscher, Obergurgl and Timmelsjoch, or Vent. Special bus-hiking arrangements are offered. Parking in the villages around Sölden is expensive, and mid season probably even problematic.
The trails in the Ötztal and adjoining valleys are well kept and marked, but there are exceptions. The descent of the Saykogel to the Hochjochhospiz is only poorly marked, most likely due to the unstable rocks. Another example is our walk from the Gaislacher See. Marks here seem to be intended for those heading for the summits of the Schwarze Schneide, and don't refer to the route which is so well indicated on the Kompass Wanderkarte. In september there was no need to use crampons on the routes we took. An ice axe became handy once fresh snow was fallen. In Sölden one can use a number of lifts to arrive quickly at higher altitudes. Note that, 1500 higher, it will also be 6 degrees centigrade colder, which feels even colder with increased wind force at these heights! Needless to say that the weather in the Alps can change dramatically: always take along warm (rain) clothing! Tired of walking? Innsbruck is really worth visiting!
Alpenvereinskarte nr. 30/2,
Ötztaler Alpen, Weisskugel, 1:25000 Kompass Wanderbuch 902: Ötztal-Pitztal,
5th edition, 1994, Fleischman GmbH & Co, ISBN 3-87051-288-1. 70 walks from easy valley
walks to alpine glacier tours (experienced only!). Ötztaler Alpen, Gebietsführer, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, München, 2nd ed. 1993, ISBN
3-7633-3231-6. Complete information about villages, huts, (tel.nrs. and period of
opening), high routes and ascents. not available yet
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