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SEAKAYAKING AROUND NW SCOTLAND



Page under yearly revision

The author would like to invite anyone having useful information and/or advice missing in this page to mail his/her remarks, suggestions, links and reactions in general.



Introduction

Seakayaking/canoeing in the north west of Scotland can be in reach of kayakers with even the lowest level of proficiency, provided the kayaker comes well prepared and informed. This page has the aim of informing prospective seakayakers in NW Scotland as much as possible. The information includes suggested canoeing areas for different levels of proficiency. some of the wildlife to be expected in the areas advice on actions to take while preparing trips/expeditions suggestions regarding extra safety equipment to take along and addresses and links of special interest

This page does not cover white water kayaking or canoeing with open C-('anadian') canoes, although there are lots of (well publicised) possibilities for these activities in NW Scotland.


Who should go where?

Note: In this section it is assumed that kayakers operating at higher levels of proficiency have (access to) at least the information and gear that those operating at lower levels have.

Absolute Beginners
Those taking up sea kayaking from scratch are advised to seek out a British Canoeing Union (BCU) approved Centre within Scotland. One now might also opt for a centre such as the Raasay House (Outdoor) Centre. Anyone having had some experience with kayaking and in the possession of the right gear will probably have to stick with fresh water Lochs. Especially suitable for this purpose are Loch Shiel, Loch Morar, Loch Eilt, Loch Maree and Loch Ericht which each have their own attractions. Loch Morar has a small Canoeing centre along it's NW shores and a MBA bothy at the far East end. Along Loch Eilt(, Etive) and Ericht there is also the possibility to stay in a MBA bothy. All Lochs have a different orientation and therefore at least one should be suitable with respect to the pending wind direction. Camping wild is not disallowed in Scotland. Absolute beginners always canoe in groups of at least three and wear the right gear.

Beginners
Beginners are kayakers with about a year's experience in the canoeing sport and have a good physical and mental health. They all know what to do in case of a capsize and can (and have practised to) get into their kayak in the middle of the water with the help of each another. They also know when the tides are spring or neaps and what this results in. Provided they stay in their designated area's the minimum number of canoeists in a group is two, but three is advisable. Apart from the Lochs absolute beginners have to stick to, sheltered sea lochs and the shoreline of some islands are ideal for beginners. Particularly suited are Loch Sunart (porpoises), Loch Etive, Loch Teacuis (seals,otters, terns, pine martins) and the Island of Kerrera. As some passages are narrow, for complete safe navigation canoeists should be able to determine the tides for the area they are visiting and should have information about the tidal rates (sometimes races!) at particular spots. In general easiest to take narrow passages at high tide for your location. Passing Carna near Loch Teacuis/Sunart (otters, pine martins, golden eagles, terns) can be a bit tricky at times and beginners should never consider entering or leaving Loch Etive (golden eagles) at the entrance to Loch Linnhe at Connel bridge. Start at Bonawe and head NE. The group should have access to Imray Charts and/or Imray's "The Yachtman's pilot to the west coast of Scotland".

Average (club) sea canoeists
For those sea canoeists operating near sea proficiency and those having only just achieved this level officially, lochs like Loch Nevis, Hourn and Linnhe could be interesting and they could consider visiting Islands like Muck, Rhum (bird sanctuary, for instance puffins) and Canna during a spell of exceptionally quiet weather. In such weather a visit of Fingal's cave with it's basalt formations on the uninhabited island of Staffa, 4 miles of the coast of Mull, can be an unforgettable experience. For Felix Mendelssohn it was such an unforgettable visit (although he didn't come by sea kayak, the cheat), it inspired him to compose his well known overture 'The Hebrides'. One might also follow the complete Ardnamurchan Coastline (basking whales) with some very interesting scenery and great places to camp near (sometimes showers/bath are provided for by nature). You will have to be lucky with the swell near the light house at the point of Ardnamurchan, though. A particularly interesting two to three day trip is the circumnavigation of Raasay. The Island, the outdoor centre there and the Calmac ferry departing from Sconser are well documented in the WWW. Going round Raasay, one is almost guaranteed seeing the beautiful and elusive (sea) otter. By the way, all of the earlier mentioned areas are recommended too. The canoeists travelling in these areas still preferably operate in groups of three or larger.

Sea canoeists with at least sea proficiency
For the ones with sea proficiency and earlier experience sea kayaking NW Scotland next step probably consists of circumnavigation of Islands such as Mull, Skye, Islay and Jura in expeditions lasting from two weeks to two months. Alternatively, following stretches on the east side of the Outer Hebrides and visiting the small islands could be interesting. Also a circumnavigation of parts of the Shetland (all kinds of birds) or Orkney Islands may attract.
One has to be prepared for the unexpected (weather) and expected (currents, overfalls, swell) and be able to cope with the circumstances individually.

Sea canoeists with advanced sea proficiency or better
For Sea canoeists with this level of proficiency maybe only the middle of Corryvreckan at springs is still not the place to be. They could have a look at the west side of the Outer Hebrides, pass the Pentland Firth and go around Cape Wrath (puffins!) and might even cross the Minch without using Caledonian MacByrne (Calmac) or P&O. These canoeists have a tendency to proclaim they know all there is to be known and have experienced all that can be experienced by a sea kayaker and do not like to be advised when not invited to....

Sensible things to do

  1. Visit the Coastguard (it's also an eye-opener!)
  2. Get registered with the Coastguard (Only Stornoway nowadays)
  3. Ask the Coastguard about their opinion regarding your plans
  4. Tell the Coastguard about your planning
  5. Get the weather forecast from the Coastguard every day
  6. Consider buying a handheld marine VHF transmitter/receiver
  7. Get both water (1:150.000 or better) and OS Maps (1:50.000 or better)
  8. Consider buying 'the Yachtsman's pilot to the west coast of Scotland' for your area
  9. Get a table with the local tides at a chandlery or (some) outdoor shop (using the general tide tables for Dover and applying the standard correction in relation to Dover times can lead to substantial discrepancies with the local situation)
  10. Have a talk with the locals in the pub or inn

Extra equipment apart from basic (safety) gear


Useful Scottish addresses and/or links

Stornoway Coastguard
Battery Point
Stornoway
Isle of Lewis PA87 2RT
Tel +44 (0)1851 702013

The Clan Morrison Hotel (nice slipway into Loch Sunart)
Glenborrodale
Acharacle, Argyll
Tel Glenborrodale 232

Mallaig Canoe Club: Makes a good contact point for anyone contemplating paddling anywhere between Ardnamurchan and north end of Rona/Raasay. (their website is www.btinternet.com/~mallaigcanoeclub ).

Applecross.net and Applecross.uk.com: Several outdoor activities including a Kayak guiding company working with beginners out of their base in Applecross, Wester Ross www.applecross.net or www.applecross.uk.com

Wilderness Scotland

Wilderness Scotland *** recommended especially *** : Wilderness Scotland is the leading adventure holidays specialist in the Highlands of Scotland offering an extensive programme of adventure vacations and tours in the most wild and beautiful regions. (their website is www.wildernessscotland.com or click on logo above ).

Raasay House: Raasay House Outdoor Centre WWW Page

Gael-Net: Gael net Main WWW Page

Ardnamurchan Tourist Association: Ardnamurchan Tourist information

Stornoway Canoes: The web site for Stornoway Canoe Club has lots of good stuff on it. www.StornowayCanoes.co.uk

Adventure Hebrides: This is a portal to adventure in the Outer Hebrides. www.AdventureHebrides.com

Canoe Hebrides: There you find the guided trips offered by Tim Pickering including the yearly trip to St Kilda. www.CanoeHebrides.com

Action Fish Kayaks, Kayak Kits and Wood Kayaks: www.actionfish.com

SEAKAYAKING ALL OVER THE WORLD
Australian/British and International Seakayaking link

Seacanoe thailand: seakayaking with local phuket seakayak tour operators


Please send comments and suggestions to Leonard Fintelman. If you send me a mail I will also try to answer any related question, if I can! [Home]